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Saturday, December 18, 2010

The Final Blog Post

South America in Numbers
Some interesting (and some amusing) digits to summarize our trip;
  • Number of days travelled: 108
  • Number of countries visited: 6
  • Number of times we entered (and exited) Argentina: 4
  • Number of photos taken: 7103
  • Number of kilometers travelled (approximate): 10,000
  • Number of buses taken: 48
  • Number of hours spent on buses: 281 (equivalent to 11.7 days, or 10.8% of our trip... but a lot of this was overnight)
  • Longest bus trip: 19 hours
  • Number of night buses: 13
  • Nights spent in tents: 7
  • Number of hours spent on planes: 31
  • Number of different meats eaten: 13 (chicken, llama, beef, alpaca, pork, guinea pig, fish, viscacha, lamb, ostrich, goat, deer, wild boar)
  • Number of different pairs of cheap sunglasses used = 9 (6 for Lisa, 3 for Alex) (we each left with 1 pair, and returned with 1 pair... the other 7 were broken, lost or drowned)
  • Kg of checked baggage we came with (together): 14 + 18 = 32
  • Kg of checked baggage we left with (together): 12.5 + 19.5 + 20 = 53 (Merry Christmas everyone!)
Funny facts from South America
Some entertaining facts we don't think we actually mentioned anywhere in the blog.
  • We went 4 months without a glass of milk
  • We went 4 months without fast-food (including Starbucks, even though that was an option later in the trip)
  • We are completely out of the loop with world news, current events, and popular culture (we’d only heard of 1 of the 12 “new release” movies on the return flight)
  • We did laundry about 1/3rd as often as at home, and had about 1/8th of the number of the clothes. Figure that one out!
  • We have a whole new perspective on travel times. The 10-hour red-eye return plane ride from BA to Dallas felt like a refreshing cat-nap after some of our long-haul bus trips.
  • With only a few exceptions (of only a few hours each time), we spent 24 hours a day, for 108 days straight in each other’s company... and are still friends.
  • We had lots of time to stew over life-plans (and made many future travel plans)
  • It will take us some time to get used to North-American style bathrooms again. We were pretty used to cold water (or no water), no soap or paper towel (especially north of Argentina) and having to dispose of used toilet paper in the waste basket (not in the toilet!).

Buenos Aires

We spent the last 6 days of our trip in the magnificent city of Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is split up into a number of “Barrios” (“neighbourhoods”). During our time in the city we explored many neighbourhoods including San Telmo, Monserrat, Puerto Madero, Recoleta and Palermo.
Some of the highlights of our time in Buenos Aires were (in no particular order):
1. The San Telmo antiques market on Sunday
About 16 blocks of street vendors and stalls selling vintage clothing, collectibles, jewellery and pretty much anything you can think of. Here is a collection of interesting antique match-boxes for sale individually.
2. The polo match
Polo is a big deal in Argentina... who knew? We wanted to see a polo game, so we showed up an hour before the start of the final polo match of the season, naively expecting to get tickets, but discovered they were long-sold out. Scalpers were trying to sell tickets for $2000 pesos ($500 CDN), but we weren’t about to pay that. We stood on the street by the fence instead (we actually had a decent view), and waited for the match to start.
Argentina’s higher class is crazy about polo, and the match was attended by ritzy portenos dressed to the 9's  in  full-length dresses and suits.  Ironically, minutes before the match started it began to pour rain.
There was thunder and lightning, and the match ended up being postponed to another day. We ran through the streets, along with hundreds of drenched well-dressed portenos to seek shelter in cafes several blocks away. It was hilarious because everyone at the match was soaked through, wearing outfits that really weren’t meant to get wet.  Once again, crazy weather with the W-Trek crew! Here we are, soaking wet, about to enjoy some hot chocolate at a Palermo street cafe while we waited for the rain to subside.
3. The free tango shows in the streets.
On our first night in Buenos Aires, Avenida de Mayo (the busy main street that our hostel was on) was transformed into a outdoor show venue.
Many locals joined in the fun and were dancing tango in the streets near the stages.
4. The Buenos Aires night life (enough said)
6. Christmas shopping on Florida pedestrian street
Sorry we can't say much more about this one until after Christmas!
 
7. Great company
Many of our travelling friends that we’ve met throughout our trip were also ending their travels in Buenos Aires and flying home before Christmas, or taking a break in BA before continuing on to other destinations, so we hung out with a fairly large group of great people for the entire time.
8. El Cabrero steak restaurant
A famous (and rightly so) steak restaurant in Palermo. We “splurged” and enjoyed an unbelieveable meal (two tenderloin base-ball steaks each, several glasses of good argentinian wine, mashed potatoes, squash, salad, creamy baked spinach, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichokes and eggplant, olive tapenades, freshly baked bread and much more), and complimentary lemoncello and champagne for $20. It was probably the best steak dinner in a restaurant we've ever had.
9. The weather (above 30 degrees on most days!)
10. Recoleta cemetery
An eerie and magnificent cemetery, resembling a small city. Each “tomb” was an extravagant marble “house” which housed the coffins or cremated remains of Argentina’s weathiest and most famous families. A strange (and very worthwhile) experience! 
The cemetery was also home to hundreds of [living] cats.
11. Street vendors (selling anything and everything from leather handicrafts to chorizos to antiques).


12. The buzz and adrenaline rush of being in a huge city (13 million people!)


13. Crossing Avenida 9 de Julio multiple times a day (20 lanes of traffic! RUN.)


14. Picnic in Palermo with Cat, Marieke, James and Will

Marieke and James made a fabulous pasta salad and we ate it with  baguette and cheese, fresh strawberries, and champagne!


15. Great parks and spotting professional dog-walkers (up to 20 pooches!).


16. The ease of getting around the city, despite it’s size (buses, cabs, and the subway were efficient and very cheap ($0.25 CDN for the subway!).   

17. The Drum Show at Konex

Hard to describe, but check out the video below!


Uruguay

We spent a night in Buenos Aires, left our big backpacks behind at the hostel, and headed to Uruguay for 4 days of sun and sand. We took the Buquebus ferry from Buenos Aires harbour to Colonia del Sacramento (“Colonia”), and spent a quiet day wandering around, eating gelato, and getting our blog posts up. Colonia was full of ancient (but running) vehicles, and scooters. We even saw a scooter with a child-seat mounted to the front!
We ventured down to the beach for sunset, which was pretty, but decided to head further east for some sandier (and less polluted) beaches.
The following morning we took the bus from Colonia to Punta del Este via Montevideo. We decided not to spend any time in Montevideo because we were about to spend a week in a big city (Buenos Aires), and we were definitley ready for some beach time after all our adventures down south! We had been lucky to land reservations at the top-rated La Lomita del Chingolo guesthouse (a type of hostel) in “Punta” and were greeted with a kiss from Alejandra, our hostess. The small 12-bed hostel was run out of the home of a young couple, their 3-year old son (Agosto) and big chocolate lab. Incredibly laid back, full of character, and with a great atmosphere, this hostel was an absolute favourite of our trip. There was even an avocado tree in the backyard that produced gigantic avocados twice a year during avocado season.
Not to mention La Lomita del Chingolo was one of the cheapest available in Punta (a pretty ritzy resort town), at $15. The population of Punta during the low season (mid-January to mid-December) is relatively small (7,300), but swells to more than 500,000 during the one-month peak season during the holidays. Luckily for us, we arrived just before peak season, which meant that the weather was perfect, but the prices were still low. Prices sky-rocket during peak season. For instance, a bed in our hostel on New Years eve sells for $400US (and it books up a year in advance)!! Punta is often nicknamed the "Monaco" of South America.
We headed to the beach on our first day, but only stayed for awhile, because the winds were high and we got a bit sandblasted. That night we all chipped in for groceries, and Alejandra & her husband (oops, we forget his name) cooked us a traditional Parrilla/Asado (BBQ) dinner in their backyard.
For $8 Canadian we had grilled provolone and baguette, vegetables and dip, chorizos, various cuts of steak, pork mambrillo (rolled stuffed pork), roasted vegetables, and salad. Parrilla is traditionally served on large, shared wooden platters, and the steak just kept coming (buffet style)! We ate way more steak that we should have (and normally could have), but it was so incredibly delicious we just kept eating! Lucky for us, there even cooked some of the steak rare, and it was the best rare steak we’ve ever had (we joked that it was like high-end steak “sushi”). Stuffed, and slightly disgusted with how much we ate, we finished eating around midnight (typical timing here) and hit the hay.
The following two days our schedule was pretty simple; breakfast, beach, make lunch, beach, gelato, wander, dinner, sleep, repeat. The (free) hostel breakfasts were laid-back, home-cooked, and incredible. She served us baked eggs with ham, home-made cereal, fresh-squeezed juice, fruit salad, tarts, cakes, teas, coffee, and grilled breakfast sandwiches.
There was a fancy grocery store in Punta, called Inglesa, that was beyond any other grocery store we’ve seen on our trip (and nicer that most grocery stores in Canada). It was practically a mall, and had everything imaginable. On our way back from the beach each day, we stopped to grab ingredients to make fresh salads and grilled seafood.
In the evening we wandered around Punta, down to the pier, where giant “Sea-wolves” lingered waiting for fish scraps. Despite their huge size, they were (mostly) quite friendly, and we even got to feed them. They took the fish scraps gently, just like a well-trained dog (a friendly local showed us how it was done).

After doing a little of our own research, we really aren't sure what these creatures are. They don't match the description for sea lions or elephant seals, but "Sea Wolf" doesn't turn up any results either. If you happen to know what these creatures are, please let us know!

Our hosts made us feel right at home, and even offered us rides around town (picking up their son from playschool along the way) and to the bus-station on our way back. We were free to use Alejandra’s well-equipped kitchen, and she even lent us towels for the beach.
Sadly, on our last day there, we mysteriously lost our “food bag”; a bag of self-catering necessities that we had been carrying around for months. Considering it was a mobile-kitchen, it was pretty well-equipped with oil, vinegar, seasonings, Tupperware, cutlery, tea, pasta, oatmeal, nuts and seeds and the like. We were certain it must have mistakenly been tossed out with the trash (it was just in a white plastic shopping bag) but after an embarrassing (and unsuccessful) dumpster-diving session we discovered that this wasn’t in fact it’s fate (unless a street-person found it first, which is a possibility).
We headed back to Buenos Aires that afternoon, and everything went very smoothly. We got the last two seats on our connecting bus, got on the last ferry, and basically walked right through customs and immigration. It was almost as if customs and immigration was more of a formality, rather than serving a purpose, because they barely looked at our passport, didn’t say two words, stamped it twice, and sent us on our way (no line or anything!).    

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Ushuaia Peguin Colonies

Late Sunday afternoon we ventured 1.5 hours by bus down the coast of the Beagle channel to visit Magellanic & Gentoo (Papua) penguin colonies with Pira Tour; the only tour company which allows you to get off the boat and walk around the island with the penguins.  After taking the bus, we took a zodiac about 15 minutes out into the channel and landed on the beach of the island, admist hundreds (maybe thousands) of penguins. We quietly left the zodiac and sat on the beach for a while just admiring the penguins and taking pictures. We spent about an hour on the island walking around with a guide, watching penguins nest and socialize (squaking for their mates who were coming back from fishing). The penguins weren't afraid of us, but we moved slowly and kept our distance so as not to disturb them. It was hatching time on the island, so we got to see a few furry babies poking out from underneath their mothers.

We were impressed with how non-commercialized the tour was despite the fact that as many as 40 people visit the island each day between October and April, when the colony is active. There was very little human impact on the island and little wooden driftwood stakes marked where you could walk, so as not to disturb the nests.

The Gentoo penguins (the larger ones, around 24" tall) make nests in the open out of sticks and stones, while the Magellanic penguins (the smaller ones, around 18" tall) dig burrows in the soft ground, sometimes under the protection of low bushes. There were only about 24 couples of Gentoo penguins on the island, but hundreds (at least) of Magellanic penguin couples. The female penguins choose their burrows based on how well they are dug, and if they like the burrow, they will like the male penguin that dug it (if not, they move on). Penguins organize themselves into "neighbourhoods" on the island, and have a single path per neighbourhood which they go to and from the ocean everyday. If a penguin couple decided to move burrows, they remain in the same neighborhood. There is no heirarchy in the penguin neighbourhood, but different neighbourhoods respect each other's space.

We also saw Patagonian geese (with babies) and some other birds which feed on the eggs and young of the penguins. After arriving back on the mainland we had fresh mint-leaf tea (from the garden) in the quaint little farmhouse, then headed back to Ushuaia around sunset. We were extremely lucky with the weather; it was sunny at around 15 degrees, which was not only abnormally nice for weather in Ushuaia, but much nicer than the forecast had predicted. It made for an all-around wonderful afternoon.

Here are a couple (haha) of our favorite pictures!