Tafi del Valle & Tucuman

One unfortunate thing about Argentina is that bus prices have about quadrupled. In Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia we were paying about $0.50-$1.00 (Cdn) per hour, and here it is about $2.50-$5.00 per hour. Although at least 8 hours on a bus actually gets you somewhere, since the roads are paved!

We took a bus from Cafayate to Tafi del Valle, and were surprised when we arrived after 2.5 hours (the book said 4-5). Tafi is tiny, pleasant village in the foothills of the Andes, known for it's beautiful setting and it's cheese. There isn´t any snow at this time of year, but the area is a big ski region in the winter.

We were really quite excited for the cheese situation, so that evening (during 5:00pm tea time) we ordered a cheese and charcuterie platter. It wasn't quite European quality (or Canadian for that matter) but then we can't really complain because it was leaps and bounds better than Bolivian cheese. The goat cheese had this bizarre spongy texture, and the ham was akin to the cheap type you'd get in a plastic package. We have to give the Argentines credit for their procuitto (after all, red meat it their specialty) and of course, the olives were tasty. In hindsight, ordering a cheese platter in northern Argentina was probably a questionable decision, but we tried!

The stray dogs in Argentina are as friendly as anywhere, but much much better fed, and far less mangy. In fact, they don't really look like strays anymore, but are just as abundant, and still sleep in the streets. They follow you around everywhere, and for no apparent reason because they don't beg. Here is unusual sighting; a stray mule eating out of a public garbage bin, and a dog picking up the rejected bits.

We had a bit of a walk from the bus station in Tafi to our planned hostel, and Lisa's pack has really taken a turn for the worst, so when a bubbly older lady stopped us on the street and asked us if we wanted to rent her $15 (Cdn) per night private apartment, complete with kitchenette, private bathroom, electric shower and two beds, we couldn't say no. It was adorable, and the family was so hospitable. (Her name is Alba, and her house is behind Mauro Artesanales, a couple blocks from the bus station... we promised her we'd tell our friends).

We made a wonderful pasta primavera, and sipped malbec.

We've been eating these for weeks, but keep forgetting to take a picture. The top parcel is a tamale, and the bottom one an humita. Both are cornmeal concoctions steamed in a corn husk parcel. Tamales generally have meat, and humitas have cheese, but everywhere they are slightly different, and equally wonderful.

The next day we wandered around town and took a leisurely stroll up to Mirador Loma del Cruz, up on the hill overlooking Tafi.

Another regional specialty is chivito (goat). We decided to try it out at Parrilla Don Pepino. There is not much meat on a goat. We decided it tasted somewhat comparable to a combination of pork and dark poultry meat, but it was tasty enough. Here are some goats on spits. The two of us shared half a goat, which was really just two small leg pieces and a small shoulder.

We said goodbye to Alba and headed for Tucuman to arrange a night bus to Cordoba. We arrived in Tucuman around 4:30 and booked a night bus for 10:40 so we headed for the central plaza to explore a bit in the meantime. Naturally, we had gelato (again). Not all prices in Argentina are crazy... this gigantic chocolate-dipped-waffle cone with nuts and two flavors of gelato cost us a whole $1.25CDN. Ice cream cones here come with a spoon, perhaps it is rude to lick. This was essentially our dinner, but we later supplemented with some fresh veggies and dried fruit from the market.